Cairngorms - Feb 2006

Cairngorms - February 2006

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During the 2nd to last week of February 2006 Gary and I went to the Cairngorms. It was supposed to be a full week of winter hillwalking and lightweight camping, (hence I had programmed my GPS to the hilt with routes and we were both carrying lightweight kit; In fact I was so light weight I didn't have a tent, believing I could Bivi out the same way I had done one Scottish winter when I was 19. Ok my 1 man tent was also broken) ending with a ride on a dogsled that my Fiánce had given me for my last birthday.

Cairngorm - 19th February 2006

Click here to see the photos from the 19th.

Day 1 (after the previous night spent in the Youth Hostel) we intended to head up to the summit of Cairngorm and over the back to a wild camp under the Shelter stone. The first few photos are of the total lack of snow in the village of Aviemore, which helped to reinforce our belief that there was no snow on the Hills either (we had seen none on the way up, and friends had told us how the Scottish hills had lacked any snow all season). You can appreciate our joy on arriving at the Cairngorm Mountain Railway (lower stop) to find that there was lots of snow on the hills.

Sadly this was short lived, the weather came in as we were climbing Cairngorm (you are not allowed to take the train to the top and then hike up the Munro, you have to hike from the bottom) and by the time we reached the summit there was a whiteout. Lucky for us I had my wrist mounted GPS all programmed up with the route off the back of Cairngorm. For those of you who are observant however you can see that the GPS is missing from my wrist in the summit shots (to tell these apart from all other shots: they are the ones with me posing on a big lump of something - the summit cairn). It had been ripped off my wrist as I took off my rucksack in a high wind, the strap was totalled, as were the little pins that held it on (I shall be producing a guide at some time showing people how to fix this). We found the unit, but took this as a sign to turn back (as you can see from the photo of me in the Ski-cafe at the top of the Cairngorm Ski runs).

The Lairig Ghru -20th February 2006

Click here to see the photos from the 20th.

The last time I attempted the Lairig Ghru was at new year 1998 - 1999. Having walked to the mid-way point in the Lairig Ghru, via the Chalamain Gap I spent 3 horrible days in a grotty little shelter with no door, and permanently damp mud for a floor, only to trip over in the Chalamain Gap on the way back and require stiches (to date my only climbing accident). In fact that was my last trip to the Cairngorms before this one.

Gary had however never done the Lairig Ghru, and as in the last 8 years we have almost exclusively done things where he takes me up something I haven't done before, but he has it was time to return the favour. The weather was again bad, but it held off during the walk in through the Chalamain Gap, which was a blessing.

To explain; for the last few years I have told many people the funny (well I think so) and embarrassing story of me tripping over my own feet on the footpath in the Gap. I believed this so totally that I was unprepared when I re-discovered that the Gap is a narrow cut filled with boulders. Not such a problem in the summer, but when all the spaces between the rocks are covered in snow it is very easy to fall, slip, or trap yourself in a hole. I even remembered that I was lifted out of a hole by some kind climbers who came by, so I guess I didn't just trip. Well, I did.... but.....

This time of course nothing happened, and we continued up into the Lairig Ghru. The going became very slow, the wind was in our faces, and the snow cover very deep and soft, we made it only as far as the Pools of Dee by sunset, and by now the wind had picked up to a troubling speed, snow was drifting against our legs as we stood, and the temperature was -6°C (overnight my little zip thermometer said it dropped to -10°C). Because of this we dug out a hole for my Bivi Bag, and did what we could for Gary's tent, before settling in for the night. We were unable to cook due to the wind (we couldn't cook in the tent as I have a petrol stove that uses a big puddle of flaring fuel to pre-heat it).

Several hours later (ok, it may have been 10 mins, but this is my story) I discovered that I was getting very very cold. It turns out that a Bivi bag really isn't warm enough for me, so after a little begging I got to share Gary's 1 man tent. Needless to say it was the closest I have ever been to Gaz, and now, several months later we still share long uncomfortable silences.

The Lairig Ghru -21st February 2006

Click here to see the photos from the 21st.

The following morning we awoke to find the wind still high, and the temperature still cold, only now all our spare water, and any kit left outside was frozen solid. Oh, and a thick fog had also rolled in.

We decided to not push on, but to head back. Our general level of fittness for the task in extreme question we also decided to try some day walks in future. The rest of the day was spent with the wind in our faces (it changed direction for us - how considerate - and how lucky I had bought some goggles at the top stop on the mountain railway), whilst we negotiated deeper snow, and a Chalamain Gap where it was even harder to find a secure footing.

To add to our woes once we were back at the lower stop for the mountain railway (were the bus back to Aviemore stops) the sun came out. Bugger.

That's where the photos end. Our week was cut short as Gaz had to head home to deal with an urgent family matter. I stayed on for an extra day to go Dog Sledding, however the weather turned even worse (a PDF version of the story can be found here should the link stop working), and the sledding was cancelled, so I headed home too.